Sunday, November 10, 2013


Tinuy-an Falls and Hinatuan River


Who are you with?  Why are you alone? Don’t you have friends or a boyfriend? The questions I have to answer time and time again during my solo trip to Surigao last October 11-14. It even got me thinking if I really do have friends. Do I? Alright, I think I have a few good friends but they can’t be travelling with me all the time, or at least I thought. J On my first day I explored the so called “Niagara of the Philippines”, Tinuy-an falls,  the widest most beautiful falls I have seen so far and the bluest river (but it’s not sad) of Hinatuan, the Enchanted River.

I arrived in Butuan in Thursday (last Oct. 14) at around 15:00, ask around and was directed to ride a multicab bound to Butuan terminal  (fare is 20PHP). Multicab ride is around 40 minutes including multiple stops. At the multicab there was a lady and his guy friend who were quite amused at hearing me speak in Bisaya, asked where I was headed and the lady offered to accompany me to the bus terminal as she is headed to Mangagoy as well, however, knowing that I can also ride a van I inquired about it and did not ride the bus leaving at 16:00. At the entrance of the terminal there are dispatchers and they told me to wait and assured me that a van will pass by, after waiting for almost an hour however I asked them in a serious and pleading tone (the lady in distress kind of way J) if the van will ever arrive, and they said it will but they don’t know when, it was at that notion that I opted to take the bus, I am guessing the van going to Mangagoy leaves in the evening, just a calculated guess so don’t expect it. J

To make the long story short, I rode the bus leaving at 17:00, it was a sweaty, long and bumpy ride but I managed with all that is within me to take a nap when evening came because I haven't slept since the night of the previous day and I am certain I looked so wasted as one passenger kind of looked at me with so much concern and he was like, “Where are you staying? I can help you find a good place”. I wouldn't want to judge him of course but because he was a guy, I just smiled and I guess he knew what that meant.

I arrived at Mangagoy at 22:00, I agreed to the first man who approached me for a ride because I don’t really have time to ask around and told him to bring me to a cheap and safe hostel just so I can have some place to sleep. He took me to “Sleep In”, which is by the way just a walking distance from the highway, you can just walk and ask around if its daytime, they have different types of rooms they even have air-conditioned ones but I opted for the fan room for  150PHP.

I woke up really early the next morning with the help of my phone alarm at 5:00, I did not allow myself to indulge in morning laziness because I knew I need to be back to Butuan that same day for me to travel to  Siargao the following day, and I must say I am very proud to keep up with my itinerary. :D I left for for Tinuy-an at 6:00 and arrived at 7:00 riding their famous habal-habal installed with a roof.

It was a long ride, yes, but the road is no longer bumpy just a lot of difficult hilly ascents and descents which is scary at times but I had to trust the driver.  Along the road the driver – Kuya Julie (he is a man and married with kids but I don’t know why the Julie), asked me where I’m headed next so I said Hinatuan, he said he could take me there directly after tinuy-an to save me the hassle of transferring rides. I didn't agree  at first because the deal for him to take me to and from Tinuy-an is only 300PHP and going straight to Hinatuan will cost me 1000PHP, so I said I will think about it.  After exploring Tinuy-an and seeing how he was really a trustworthy man (left him all my things) I decided to hire him for the entire day at 900PHP, I was able to negotiate 100php. If I took the alternative transpo I could ride a bus to Hinatuan which is at 30PHP and ride another Habal2 for 300PHP as per the locals but I was already having a friend and If there is anything I can buy, why not buy time right?

The falls was truly breathtaking, I guess I could say it was a moment that took my breath away but I had to fight and get it back because I had to live. Kidding aside, I really am thankful to God for giving me the courage and assuring my safety for that trip because I was able to see how beautiful it really was that pictures you see can’t justify it. You may not appreciate the  first level of the falls being the closest to the entrance but the second one, which is mostly what is depicted in the pictures is the highest and the widest, you can’t really get under it because the current is so strong. The third and the fourth levels however, are not that wide and long but there you can immerse yourself under the falls and see the seemingly carved rock walls and the lush green trees that makes the place more heavenly. Going up to the third and fourth level requires that you get a guide and I strongly suggest that you get one because the way is very slippery and this place does not hold a record of zero fatality rate, at least one dies every year as per the guide so saying be careful can’t be stressed enough.

After an hour of dipping and jumping on its cold waters, I figured I had to leave for Hinatuan as I had to see the fish feeding at 12:00. Leaving from Tinuy-an at 8:00, we arrived at Hintu-an at 10:00 so I had spent more of my time at the river, which is good because there were more people there and a lifeguard, they also hold a record of zero fatality rate so I felt it was really safe to go swimming there alone.

I was amazed at seeing that it really was colored so blue, but I was more amazed when I tasted that it was salty. I didn’t drink form it of course, but you can’t be dipping in waters and not tasting it somehow, so why is the water salty? I have no idea, my guess is maybe it was close to the sea?

I had someone take pictures of me at Tinuy-an, but I thought who would take pictures of me here? Being the resourceful that I am, I saw a cottage and talked to the man who was sitting there, discovering that he was the life guard I left him my camera and he became my instant photographer. I also had my early lunch before diving in the blue waters and I must say they have the cheapest seafood on earth. J

While dipping, the thing I enjoyed the most was balancing myself in between two big balls in what seems to be a life line they have installed near the cottage not very far from the bluest part on the right side of the river, that is until I saw the fish getting ready for feeding. Boy, the fishes were too big and too many and they really come out at around 12:00 noon expectant of their portion, this I could say is truly magical and enchanting.

I left at around 12:40 and was able to ride a van heading back to Butuan at 13:15. I was blessed with a very good weather and had meet really good people including Kuya Julie that day, it was trip I’d do all over again.

I am sharing with you my itinerary and expenses. My dinner for day zero by the way was the lanzones I bought on the bus station which I ate on the bus and my breakfast the next day was cup noodles and bread I have bought with me from MLA. J This is Kuya Julie’s contact number if you are interested : 09168719168.

Day 0
15:05 arrive airport.. Ride multicab to butuan terminal (20 PHP)
15:40 arrive at terminal
17:00 bus to Mangagoy (240 PHP)
21:45 arrived at mangagoy, ride tricycle to hostel (50 PHP)
22:00 arrived at hostel (150 PHP)
Day 1 - 6:00 to tinuy-an8:00- left tinuy-an (tricycle 900 PHP for whole day)
10:00 arrive enchanted,.
10:30 early lunch
12:40 head back to main road for  butuan..
13:15  van back to butuan..

Below are some photos but you may visit my fb page and like for more photos. J


ain't there a rainbow always after the rain? the second level of Tinuy-an but is the main attraction

on the way up

3rd level

4th level

yes, that is Kuya Julie and me in a roofed habal-habal on the way to Hinatuan - Enchanted river, pictures below.